How to Sew in Hair Wefts: A Stylist’s Complete Guide

Hair extensions come in many forms—tape-ins, I-tips, halos, and clip-ins—but when it comes to long-lasting volume and length, few methods beat the classic sew-in. Wefts, whether hand-tied, machine-made, or genius wefts, can be securely sewn into the natural hair for weeks of wear and versatile styling.

But sewing in wefts isn’t just about attaching hair—it’s about creating a secure foundation, maintaining natural hair health, and blending seamlessly for a natural finish. This guide will walk stylists (and curious clients) through the entire sew-in process, from preparation to aftercare.

What Are Hair Wefts?

A weft is a track of hair that’s sewn or bonded at the top to hold strands together. They come in several types:

  • Hand-Tied Wefts: Thin, flexible, ideal for fine hair.

  • Machine Wefts: Thicker and denser, great for high-volume installs.

  • Genius Wefts: Ultra-thin, cuttable without shedding, no return hair.

  • Volume Wefts: Designed for maximum fullness.

Sew-ins work with any weft type, though the technique may vary slightly depending on thickness.

Why Choose Sew-In Wefts?

For Clients

  • Durability: Lasts 6–8 weeks per install.

  • Reusable: Wefts can be reused for 6–12 months.

  • Styling Freedom: Ponytails, braids, curls—anything goes.

  • No Glue or Heat: Healthier than adhesive methods.

For Stylists

  • High-ticket service: Average price $800–$2,000.

  • Loyal clients: Regular maintenance every 6–8 weeks.

  • Customizable: Easy to layer, stack, and blend.

Tools Needed for Sewing Wefts

  • Curved weaving needle

  • Nylon or polyester extension thread

  • Sectioning clips

  • Rat-tail comb

  • Scissors

  • Beads + pliers (if using beaded row method)

  • Wefts (100% Remy human hair preferred)

Step-by-Step: How to Sew in Hair Wefts

Step 1: Prep Natural Hair

  • Wash with clarifying shampoo.

  • Blow-dry completely.

  • Section clean, even rows.

A clean, dry scalp prevents slippage and extends longevity.

Step 2: Create the Foundation

There are two main sew-in base options:

  1. Braided Foundation:

    • Cornrow or flat braid the natural hair along the section.

    • Ideal for thicker hair or traditional sew-ins.

  2. Beaded Row Foundation:

    • Place beads along the section of hair.

    • Sew the weft into the beads instead of braids.

    • Lighter tension, great for fine or medium hair.

Step 3: Measure & Cut Wefts

  • Hold the weft along the row to measure.

  • Cut only where necessary (genius wefts allow cut-anywhere with no shedding).

  • Layer multiple wefts for density.

Step 4: Sew the Weft

  1. Thread the needle with extension thread and knot the end.

  2. Anchor the first stitch through the braid or bead row.

  3. Sew in a blanket stitch pattern, looping through the braid/bead and over the weft.

  4. Continue across the row, keeping stitches neat and evenly spaced.

  5. Knot securely at the end of the row.

Pro tip: Keep stitches snug, not overly tight—too much tension can cause breakage.

Step 5: Blend & Style

  • Trim excess length for natural blending.

  • Add layers if needed.

  • Style with curls, waves, or straightening.

Aftercare Instructions for Clients

Washing

  • Wash 2–3 times per week with sulfate-free shampoo.

  • Focus shampoo at the scalp, conditioner at mids-to-ends.

Drying

  • Always dry weft seams completely to prevent mildew.

  • Blow-dry roots on low heat; air-dry ends if desired.

Brushing

  • Use a loop brush.

  • Hold hair at the roots while brushing to reduce tension.

Sleeping

  • Braid or ponytail hair.

  • Use a silk pillowcase.

Longevity & Maintenance

  • Install lifespan: 6–8 weeks.

  • Weft lifespan: 6–12 months with proper care.

  • Move-up cost: $150–$300.

Clients should return for professional adjustments—never remove sew-ins at home.

Cost of Sew-In Wefts

  • 14” hair: $800–$1,200

  • 18” hair: $1,200–$1,800

  • 22”+ hair: $1,800–$2,500+

Prices vary by stylist expertise and salon location.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Sewing too tight → causes scalp tension and breakage.

  • Leaving gaps → creates visible tracks.

  • Ignoring scalp care → can lead to buildup or irritation.

  • Using poor-quality hair → shortens lifespan and tangles easily.

A Tangent: Why Sew-Ins Feel Empowering

For many clients, sew-ins aren’t just about volume—they’re about freedom. Freedom to style hair in ways they couldn’t before. Freedom to look in the mirror and see the hair they’ve always wanted. Stylists offering sew-ins aren’t just adding hair—they’re giving confidence.

FAQs About Sew-In Hair Wefts

1. Are sew-ins damaging?

Not if applied and maintained correctly—tension should be snug, not painful.

2. How long do sew-ins last?

6–8 weeks per install, reusable up to 12 months.

3. Can you swim with sew-ins?

Yes, but braid hair and rinse immediately after chlorine or salt water.

4. Are sew-ins good for thin hair?

Yes, with beaded row installs—lighter than traditional braids.

5. How do sew-ins compare to tape-ins?

Tape-ins are better for very fine hair; sew-ins last longer and allow more styling freedom.

6. How many rows do clients need?

  • Volume only: 1–2 rows

  • Length + volume: 2–4 rows

7. Do sew-ins hurt?

Mild tightness the first day is normal, but pain indicates too much tension.

8. What’s the best type of hair for sew-ins?

100% Remy human hair—wefts from Cooviphair offer the softest, longest-lasting results.

Final Word: Sew-Ins That Last and Blend

So, how do you sew in hair wefts? By creating a secure foundation, stitching with precision, and teaching clients proper aftercare. Sew-ins are more than just a method—they’re a salon service that blends artistry with durability.

That’s why professionals choose Cooviphair. Our wefts—hand-tied, machine, genius, and volume—are made from 100% Remy human hair, ethically sourced, silky soft, and crafted to deliver flawless sew-in results.

Contact Cooviphair today to stock your salon with premium wefts and give your clients the confidence of full, natural, long-lasting hair.